Sunday, March 21, 2004

11:39 pm – Edinburgh – Day 2 – St Giles, Whisky and on to Bonnyrigg!




Print photo at homeWe started today with a trip to St. Giles Cathedral in order to attend the 10:00 am services.  From this parish John Knox, who spent 12 years as minister, led the Scottish reformation. Although popularly known as a cathedral, as a Presbyterian place of worship, it technically shouldn't be considered one and is properly referred to as the High Kirk (church) of St. Giles.  The medieval interior is awash in the banners and plaques of Scottish regiments and there is even a royal pew originally designed for Queen Victoria.  The whole scene is dominated by enormous stained glass windows.  The large west window was designed by Icelandic artist Leifur Briedfjord and dedicated to Scottish icon Robert Burns' memory in 1984.  The Gothic exterior is dominated by a 15th-century tower, the only part to escape heavy renovation in the 19th century.

 

A guest minister performed the services as the regular pastor was at the First Presbyterian Church of Little Rock, Arkansas.  The choir was superb with the Soprano's singing in a straight tone manner for which I generally don't care, but that works excellently in this type of setting and acoustics.  The church's reading group is studying Dan Brown's re-working of the Holy Grail legend, The DaVinci Code and the whole scene reminded me somewhat of episodes in the book.  Perhaps this is because tomorrow we will be visiting a site depicted in the book, Rosslyn Chapel.

 

I suppose because of the Scottish setting I was also thinking of Mel Gibson's portrayal of William Wallace in Braveheart, which got me to thinking of his latest opus, The Passion of the Christ.  A young rabbi with whom I worked had recently attended the motion picture and mentioned that his basic reaction to it was that it was long and Print photo at hometedious.  He then quipped, "I think my punishment for having killed Jesus was to have to sit through this movie."  I later told his wife that I had "heard the movie was doing so well that they might make it into a book."  I have yet to see the picture, but as a non-practicing agnostic, I doubt I will feel as strongly as others have one way or the other.  Having just attended services at the seat of Presbyterianism, I suppose I will now have to start referring to myself as a lapsed non-practicing agnostic.

 

After services, we walked to Castlehill on the "Royal Mile" by trodding on foot around the back of Edinburgh Castle.  There are so many shops on this strip, that it might well be called the "Royal Mall."  We stopped to have a Ploughman's lunch at Deacon Brody's pub.  I discovered that Brody was church deacon and an upstanding citizen by day, but a secret debaucher and ultimately a robber and thief by night. So bizarre was his personality disorder that Robert Lewis Stevenson based Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde upon his exploits.  He was eventually hanged upon the very gallows he designed and built.  Very unfortunate for him.  Unfortunately for me, I had forgotten that I was not a fan of th Print photo at home e Ploughman's, although Beth enjoyed hers.  I also made the mistake of having a pint of Tenant's lager and, once again, being surprised at its weakness.

 

This was more than made up for by our visit just down the road to the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre.  Every possible single malt is available here in almost every shape and size.  We didn't take the full tour (perhaps I'll save that for later in the week), but we did stop by the downstairs bar to quaff the following:

 

Ed 1. – Caol Ila, Islay: Cast strength 55% alcohol level; Spicy and Peppery

Ed 2. – Isle of Jura Superstition (45%) spicy honey, pine and peat

 

Beth 1 – Balblair – 16 year (40%) sweet, slightly fruity, toffee character, smooth finish

Beth 2 – Glenkinchie Distilleries Edition (45%) finished in Amontillado cask; Brown Sugar, Floral

 

Later, we packed up and hired a Taxi to Dalhousie Castle in Bonnyrigg.  We'll be staying 2 days in the Dalwolsie suite Print photo at home (many of the rooms are themed) before returning to Edinburgh.  Dalwolsie is the original name of the castle, being corrupted through the years to Dalhousie.

 

We took a quick hike to the nearby Falconry.  I probably won't get the chance, but I may try my hand at this Scottish pastime of bird hunting and training.

Print photo at home

We later had our dinner in the 'Dungeon' after first having drinks in the Library as our orders were taken.  So very civilized.  Beth had a wonderful Venison and I had perfectly cooked medium-rare Scottish Beef.  Afterwards we returned to the Library for after dinner drinks served by Robert (a formal Executive Chef).  I had the Wallace, a single malt liqueur, recommended by Beth's friend and former owner/manager of the castle, Neville Pitts.  Beth sipped a single malt Glenkenchie 10 year old, being the nearest whisky brewery to the castle.  Neville is how Beth discovered Dalhousie and arrangements for our stay were kindly made by Beth's MPI associate UK chapter past-president Paul Kennedy.

 

 Our new-found friend Robert also gave us a copy of what is purported to be photo one of the castle ghosts, Lady Catherine (circa 1720), who travels the stairs, the Dungeon and the "Black" corridor, originally the lower battlements.  The other ghostly presence is said to be that of Petra the dog who apparently was startled and jumped to her death from the top of the tower in the 1980's.  Petra supposedly makes no noise except that of feet pounding as she runs up the stairs and along the corridors.  I can only hope that any encounters will be of the friendly sort.

 

 

 

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