Monday, March 22, 2004

6:59 pm – Edinburgh – Day 3 – Rosslyn Chapel

Today is the day we visit Rosslyn Chapel in Roslyn (note the subtle spelling difference in the chapel and the town names).  Rosslyn (the Chapel) has to be one of the most enigmatic buildings in all of Scotland, if not all the world.  An extraordinary blend of Pagan, Christian, Celtic and Masonic symbolism, stone carvings representing each of these beliefs cover practically every surface.  The Green Man (a pre-Christian symbol of fertility and renewal) is represented well over 100 times.  The Green Man also symbolizes the capacity for great goodness and for significant evil.  The story of Robin Hood apparently has its origins in this legend. One pillar of the chapel seems to have even been inspired by Scandinavian mythology with eight dragons draped around its base.

Recently depicted in The DaVinci Code as a repository and hiding place for the body of Mary Magdalene and its associations with the Knights Templar, Rosslyn Chapel has also been referred to as a copy Solomon's Temple in Jerusalem (and therefore not a Christian site at all) as well as a hiding place for the Ark of the Covenant and even a the resting place of the head of John the Baptist.  While all these stories may be fantastical, it is difficult to explain the chapel carvings of New World plants such as Indian corn 50 years prior to Columbus' "discovery" of America.  The Chapel still holds weekly services to this day.

My favorite legend is that of the Mason's apprentice who reportedly made a pillar with such skill and imagination that he was killed in a fit of jealous rage by the master mason.  There is a sculpture of the apprentice (complete with scar from the blow to his head where the mason struck him) as well as the mason and the apprentice's grieving mother.  The fallen angel Lucifer himself is depicted trussed up and hanging upside down in The Lady Chapel next to the Alter.

Even though it is under construction (apparently till 2010) and the outside is marred by metal scaffolding, if you are ever in the Edinburgh area, this site should definitely be on your 'go to' list.  One advantage to the scaffolding is that you can climb the structure and get views from the top of the towers that you will never be able to rival once construction is complete

Since it was too muddy to walk down the short path to Roslyn Castle, we headed off down the hill to have lunch at the Original Roslyn Hotel.

Returning by cab, we took an hour or so hike around the Dalhousie Castle grounds and got much better views of this wonderful edifice.  A particular delight was an old ruins and even more interesting distanced views of Dalhousie Castle.  We then took a not-so-hot Spa turn (literally, the water was tepid) and a short rest before our dinner tonight in Dalhousie's 'Orangery.'

Day 3 - Con't – 11:45 PM

I shall only briefly say that our dinner at the Orangery was one of our best experiences so far.  The meal was unexpectedly superb and was topped off by a most gracious gift from MPI's Paul Kennedy.  An overly generous gift of a 2000 Chateau Lascomb Margaux arrived at our table with a flourish and was consumed with our delicious meal.

Afterward (and before, if the truth were known), we again stopped for a 'wee dram' at what has become our favorite room at Dalhousie, The Library. Sumptuously fitted in turn-of-the-century Victoriana with a constantly roaring wood and coal fire, The Library befits what I have always imagined was the respite for a "Lord of the Manner."  Occasionally rowdy with the noise of pre-dinner celebrations, most times it is a quiet spot for reading or contemplation with an ever attendant staff ready to ply you with your favorite liquor.  Definitely, my kind of place.

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