Paris
Vacation - Day 7
As
we were determined to see some impressionist paintings while in Paris, we
decided to again try to gain entrance to Musée D'Orsay so we started
out along the Rue du Bonaparte and it began, again, to rain – an omen,
if ever there was one. The crowds in front of the museum were larger than the
other day, but, as we soon found out, they knew no more than us. We were all
soon enlightened when an announcement was made in both French and English
that, because of an employee strike, the museum was fermé (closed).
For a moment, I thought I might be able to organize the English speaking
among the crowd in a high volume chant of "Show Me the Monet!"
but had no hope that it would be effective.
W e,
instead, moved on via the Metro to the wonderful city within a city of Montmartre.
The highest natural point in the area contains the cathedral of Sacré
Coeur and it takes some heavy-duty climbing or the use of a Funiculaire,
a sort of cable car, that costs the price of a Metro ticket. As we entered Sacré
Coeur, we were struck by its beauty and the equally beautiful singing of
the nuns at the alter. Although crowded, we quickly found a seat and silently
listened to their gentle chants. We next covered as much of the Montmartre
area that time allowed and checked its numerous stair-ending streets and
extraordinarily striking views of Paris.
Beth's father's business partner, David, has a part ownership in a restaurant
and a wine shop in Paris so we thought we would stop and perhaps have lunch
there. After some initial confusion over the address because of some
scaffolding, we found the New Macéo and enjoyed a leisurely and
delicious meal thanks in large part to the maitre 'd, Mark Williamson, a
younger Peter O'Toole look alike who treated us splendidly.
Although
I had wondered through the entrance earlier, Beth had not seen the Paris
Opera House so I suggested we walk from the restaurant as it seemed close per
our various maps. So off we went – and then Le Déluge. The heavens
opened and even though we were dressed for it, we were getting soaked. We
trudged on for a while, but we seemed to be walking for far too long of a
time. We finally located a street sign and again checked our maps. We had,
indeed, made a wrong turn and were a full two Metro stops in the wrong
direction. We ducked into the nearest station and caught the train back to
the L'Opéra stop. Wet, but undeterred we purchased entry tickets to
this bravura edifice. Beth was disappointed that the auditorium itself was
closed because of a rehearsal and I would have liked to have found a way to
the underground lake, but we enjoyed a quick look at the architecture and
moved on.
After
our rainy jaunt, we needed a restorative and found it in the Salon de Thé
at Fauchon. I am not, by nature, a tea drinker, but this was just what
I needed. It reaffirmed our will to continue and continue we did with a bit
of a shopping binge throughout Fauchon shops in the Place de la
Madeleine. Poire William, gourmet items and chocolat for my
co-workers were a few of the items we will have to pack on our return. By the
way, a shop in the Place de la Madeleine is where the famous 1976 wine
tasting by Steven Spurrier brought California the recognition they had,
theretofore, been lacking. A 1973
Chateau Montelena chardonnay and a 1973 Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, both
from Napa Valley, California, were the highest scorers against the best of
French wines in a blind taste test.
The French tasters included the chief inspector of the National
Institute of Controlled Appellations, the owners of two famous Paris restaurants
and the sommelier of a third. Here's
an interesting side note. Time
magazine said of the Paris tasting:
"The U.S. winners are little known to wine lovers, since they are
in short supply even in California and rather expensive." Time's definition of expensive? "$6
plus."
However,
we weren't through, yet. I suppose no first trip to Paris would be complete
without a visit to the Tour D'Eiffel. The tallest
structure in the world until it was supplanted by the Empire State building,
the Eiffel Tower is a strange edifice in that it really has no function
except to be that which it is – a tower. Beth decided the second stage was
plenty high for our ascension and
I had no burning desire to go to the very top. A rather pushy crowd and
substantial wait in the drizzly cold weather made us just want to get this
touristy part of our trip over. Be warned that the wait in season can be over
two hours to get to the top. The elevators are built for safety, not speed or
capacity. My main thought on the Tower was how susceptible it is to bombing
threats as no bags were checked or persons searched on the grounds beneath or
entering the Tower itself. Parisians, I say to you: World Trade Center. We
stopped at the Café Bonaparte near the hotel for a a couple of bowls
of Soupe L'Oignon and a shared Croque Provençal.
By the way, it rained on the way back to the hotel.
|