Tuesday, April 10th, 2001

Paris Vacation - Day 7

View up the FuniculaireAs we were determined to see some impressionist paintings while in Paris, we decided to again try to gain entrance to Musée D'Orsay so we started out along the Rue du Bonaparte and it began, again, to rain – an omen, if ever there was one. The crowds in front of the museum were larger than the other day, but, as we soon found out, they knew no more than us. We were all soon enlightened when an announcement was made in both French and English that, because of an employee strike, the museum was fermé (closed). For a moment, I thought I might be able to organize the English speaking among the crowd in a high volume chant of "Show Me the Monet!" but had no hope that it would be effective.

Sacre CoeurWStairway to Sacre Coeure, instead, moved on via the Metro to the wonderful city within a city of Montmartre. The highest natural point in the area contains the cathedral of Sacré Coeur and it takes some heavy-duty climbing or the use of a Funiculaire, a sort of cable car, that costs the price of a Metro ticket. As we entered Sacré Coeur, we were struck by its beauty and the equally beautiful singing of the nuns at the alter. Although crowded, we quickly found a seat and silently listened to their gentle chants. We next covered as much of the Montmartre area that time allowed and checked its numerous stair-ending streets and extraordinarily striking views of Paris.

Beth's father's business partner, David, has a part ownership in a restaurant and a wine shop in Paris so we thought we would stop and perhaps have lunch there. After some initial confusion over the address because of some scaffolding, we found the New Macéo and enjoyed a leisurely and delicious meal thanks in large part to the maitre 'd, Mark Williamson, a younger Peter O'Toole look alike who treated us splendidly.

The Top of the Paris Opera House (Look! Blue Sky!)Although I had wondered through the entrance earlier, Beth had not seen the Paris Opera House so I suggested we walk from the restaurant as it seemed close per our various maps. So off we went – and then Le Déluge. The heavens opened and even though we were dressed for it, we were getting soaked. We trudged on for a while, but we seemed to be walking for far too long of a time. We finally located a street sign and again checked our maps. We had, indeed, made a wrong turn and were a full two Metro stops in the wrong direction. We ducked into the nearest station and caught the train back to the L'Opéra stop. Wet, but undeterred we purchased entry tickets to this bravura edifice. Beth was disappointed that the auditorium itself was closed because of a rehearsal and I would have liked to have found a way to the underground lake, but we enjoyed a quick look at the architecture and moved on.

Beth in front of 'La Boheme' near Place de la Madeleine.After our rainy jaunt, we needed a restorative and found it in the Salon de Thé at Fauchon. I am not, by nature, a tea drinker, but this was just what I needed. It reaffirmed our will to continue and continue we did with a bit of a shopping binge throughout Fauchon shops in the Place de la Madeleine. Poire William, gourmet items and chocolat for my co-workers were a few of the items we will have to pack on our return. By the way, a shop in the Place de la Madeleine is where the famous 1976 wine tasting by Steven Spurrier brought California the recognition they had, theretofore, been lacking.  A 1973 Chateau Montelena chardonnay and a 1973 Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, both from Napa Valley, California, were the highest scorers against the best of French wines in a blind taste test.  The French tasters included the chief inspector of the National Institute of Controlled Appellations, the owners of two famous Paris restaurants and the sommelier of a third.  Here's an interesting side note.  Time magazine said of the Paris tasting:  "The U.S. winners are little known to wine lovers, since they are in short supply even in California and rather expensive."  Time's definition of expensive? "$6 plus."


You know what this is!However, we weren't through, yet. I suppose no first trip to Paris would be complete without a visit to the Tour D'Eiffel. The Beth on the Eiffel Towertallest structure in the world until it was supplanted by the Empire State building, the Eiffel Tower is a strange edifice in that it really has no function except to be that which it is – a tower. Beth decided the second stage was plenty high for our ascension and I had no burning desire to go to the very top. A rather pushy crowd and substantial wait in the drizzly cold weather made us just want to get this touristy part of our trip over. Be warned that the wait in season can be over two hours to get to the top. The elevators are built for safety, not speed or capacity. My main thought on the Tower was how susceptible it is to bombing threats as no bags were checked or persons searched on the grounds beneath or entering the Tower itself. Parisians, I say to you: World Trade Center. We stopped at the Café Bonaparte near the hotel for a a couple of bowls of Soupe L'Oignon and a shared Croque Provençal.

By the way, it rained on the way back to the hotel.

 

 

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